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Cima Paganella

Cima Paganella

Photo from: ph. Frizzera

Climbing over the valle dell'Adige.

Cima Paganella cliff is by far the most scenic and spectacular cliff you can find on the Paganella Plateau and surroundings.

  • signal_cellular_alt Difficulty Medium
  • straighten distance 0.18 Km
  • schedule duration 0:23 h
  • arrow_drop_up elevation 271 m
  • arrow_drop_down descent 0 m
  • skip_next highest point 1975 m
  • skip_next lowest point 1704 m

Best time of year:

jan
feb
mar
apr
may
jun
jul
aug
sep
oct
nov
dec

Safety information:

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Start

Cima Paganella

Coordinates

DD 46.139404 , 11.044586 DMS46° 8' 21.8544'' N 11° 2' 40.5096'' E

Destination

Cima Paganella

Public Transis

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train (Ferrovia Trento - Malé), from Mezzolombardo to Fai della Paganella by bus. You can go to the top of PAganella by chairlift from Fai della Paganella (end June-end August) or by gondola+chairlift from Andalo (mid June-end September).

 

 

Getting there

From the motorway exit Trento nord we drive direction val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella; just afer the long tunnel by Mezzolombardo, we turn right (SP 64), to Fai della Paganella and Andalo.

Parking

Fai della Paganella: departure of the chairlift

Andalo: departure of the lifts or near the swimming pool/football pitch

 

Turn-by-turn directions

Cima Paganella cliff is by far the most scenic and spectacular cliff on the Paganella Plateau. From the wall, located at an height of 2100m., you can enjoy a unique view in an environmental context which makes climbers feel emotions that only the most renowned mountain routes can offer. The wall facing East offer a favoured view of the underlying Adige Valley and the Lakes of Lamar, while on the horizon the gaze reaches the Eastern Dolomites and the Lagorai Group. This new cliff is formed by a rough limestone, sturdy and compact, largely wrought and full of holes, grips and handholds where climbing comes with satisfaction. The nailing at short distance and a clear predominance of low/medium difficulty pitches make of this wall an ideal cliff even for the less experienced climbers.

Once you have reached Cima Paganella, it is possible to get to the cliff by walking the first stretch of the path Sentiero delle Aquile (equipped path) which takes you to the cliff in about 15 minutes. Otherwise you can take the path 602 till you reach the Canalone Battisti in about 10 minutes (huge wood protection located on the top of the canal) and then cover in the opposite direction the path Sentiero delle Aquile, which leads you to the bottom of the cliff in a few minutes.

 

18 ways from 4c to 7b

1. Peace from Paganella: 5c; 10m.

2. Via del muschio: 4c; 11m.

3. Raponzolo: 5a; 12m.

4. Via Lunel: 6a; 14m.

5. Muy Linda: 6a; 14m.

6. Kersch: 6b+; 14m.

7. Ginepraio: 6c+; 12m.

8. Rododendro: 7b; 13m.

9. La Panoramica: 6a; 22m.

10. Via dei Licheni: 6a+; 12m.

11. Calcaria: 5c+; 12m.

12. Via Maestri: 6a; 18m.

13. Edelweiss: 6c+; 18m.

14. LA Negritella: 4c; 8m.

15. Mirtillo: 5a; 8m.

16. Astro Alpino: 5a; 8m.

17. Buchetto Degno: 6a+; 8m.

18. Orso Bruno: 5a; 8m.

Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

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[There is no appointed guide for this route.]

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